Description
_________________________________________________________________________ WITH removable plastic Interior* MUG18SS………..2.5 Minutes in a press………Light Pressure
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*Note: Be careful NOT TO press so hard that the mug becomes deformed WHEN the press IS closed.
Note: The area of the
mug beyond the white patch IS sublimatable, so ANY bleed beyond this area will transfer onto the mug.
Notes FOR Mugs WITH A Plastic
INSERT:
~ Remove plastic
INSERT prior TO pressing.
~ Plastic
INSERT IS dishwasher safe.
~ Stainless steel shell may be submersed in water TO accelerate cooling.
Notes FOR Mugs Without A Plastic
INSERT:
~ NOT dishwasher safe hand wash only. Allow water to fully drain from the hole in the bottom of the mug prior to storing or using the product. Shipped with the lids attached. Should a lid not fit after imprinting then the mug press pressure was too high.
~ Also, if lids become separated from the original mug to which they were attached, you may find them not to fit. Should this occur, try other lids until you find the proper mate. Heavy pressure will cause damage to the mugs handle anchor points allowing water TO seep INTO the air-insulating cavity via cracks in these areas. This problem also can occur if the product has been washed in a dishwasher. A hole has been drilled INTO the bottom of the mug TO allow the water TO drain. However, even under the best of circumstances, water may still find its way through the handle anchor points OR the hole in the bottom of the mug.
~ Perform heat press imaging only. Placing a mug INTO an oven will cause the plastic pieces TO melt.
~ Allow the mug TO cool in OPEN air — do not “�dunk” them in water. You can accelerate the cooling process through the use of a fan blowing across the surface of the mug or by laying them down on a Cool Plate.
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Stainless Steel Mugs in an Oven:
MUG18SS; 13oz. Stainless steel mugs
USING DYEWRAP-10
PowerDriver: Silver Metal 8 Minutes
– Stainless Steel Mugs: The imprintable area ON these mugs tends TO vary BY a slight amount, so be sure TO confirm measurements WHEN you line up your artwork.
– Adhesive Spray IS recommended over heat tape.
– Tighten dyewrap TO finger tight, THEN give it two more turns.
– Place the base of the mug in the oven closest TO the heat source.
– Be sure TO wrap the entire area of the substrate WITH protective paper, there will be a discoloration of the substrate should the wrap come INTO contact.
– Wraps should LAST FOR 300 OR more impressions. TO ensure the proper lifecycle, please closely follow these instructions.
– Wraps will fail due TO improper torque applied TO the fastener. You can ensure appropriate torque, TIME- AFTER- TIME, through the USE of a mechanized nut driver WITH an adjustable torque clutch. These devices are relatively inexpensive, $20.00 AND up, AND easy TO use. We recommend the Sears Craftsman 4.8V Pistol cordless screwdriver.
– TO calibrate the nut driver’s torque, simply finger tighten the nut ON the wrap, THEN tighten further, USING a maximum of 2 turns, WITH an ordinary wrench. Adjust the clutch setting ON the nut driver TO 1 AND BEGIN tightening the nut WHILE cycling upward through the torque settings UNTIL the nut actually turns. AT this POINT, SET the clutch TO 1 number LESS THAN the current setting AND you’re finished.
– Another necessary step IS TO employ a double-redundant mug wrap system, AT a minimum, AND a triple-redundant system, ideally. That IS, if mugs are being imaged back- TO-back in a production run, THEN you need a matching quantity of cool mug wraps TO swap in FOR subsequent runs. So, if you’re running 72 mugs AT a TIME, you will need AT LEAST 144 total wraps TO DO the job. It IS easier TO DO this WITH a triple-redundant system, AS the term “cool” IS LESS subjective THAN WITH a double-redundant system.
HAVING three-times the necessary wraps IS absolutely the best way TO PRESERVE them over time.
– WHEN a hot wrap IS fastened TO a mug it causes the material TO irreversibly stretch. AS the material expands it puts UNDO FORCE ON the glue bindings, which will eventually come loose. Further, it IS a bad idea TO subject the IMAGE TO transient heat BEFORE transfer.
– Should your wrap come apart AT a glue binding, you can re-secure it WITH automotive heat-resistant gasket glue. Beware of the rather lengthy setting TIME of 1 WEEK FOR the REPAIR TO fully cure.
– The fastener will permanently seize if it IS NOT lubricated properly. Lubrication of the threaded shaft IS required BEFORE you USE it FOR the FIRST TIME AND periodically thereafter. We recommend heat-resistant bearing grease WITH a colored (usually white, red OR green) tracer. The colored tracer provides a visual verification that the grease IS still intact.
MUG18SS Assembly:
1. IMAGE your OUTER metal piece AND allow TO cool
2. Place the metal piece onto the interior plastic cup WITH handle AND push ALL the way in
3. Make sure the bottom portion of the interior plastic cup IS centered AT the bottom of the metal piece
4. Place the bottom ON the metal piece AND twist UNTIL it IS tight
If the bottom plastic piece will NOT screw ON you may NOT have the metal piece ALL the way in OR you may NOT have the plastic piece centered. Adjust AND try again.
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